John o' Groats

JOG is a rather tacky place but we had to go there and stand by the famous signpost, didn't we? It isn't the kind of end to a journey you would want, so good for us that we were aiming a little further north on our trip. It isn't even the most northerly point on the mainland - that award goes to Dunnet Head. JOG is just a tourist trap, really. And an anti-climax. Go to Dunnet Bay instead: it's beautiful!
Mark.

Hairy faces

After nearly 2 weeks on the road, Mark and Rich had grown considerably more facial hair than they started out with. For Rich at least, this is something of a novelty. But will he keep it?

Along the north coast

On the road just after 9am on a lovely, sunny morning on day 12 of our adventure. The first 20 odd miles were up and down over spectacular, wild cliff scenery with sweeping views of the sea, mountains and distant Orkney islands. After we entered Caithness and passed Dounreay nuclear establishment, the land flattened out into fields of crops with big slabs of local stone edging the fields. Finally we swept down into Thurso - a surprisingly attractive place - and met up with my brother Paul's wife Elspeth's sister Cath's former university flatmate Carol, who I'd never met before! Carol was lovely and most helpfully offered to store our paniers in her car while we rode the 45 mile round trip to John O' Groats. Thanks Carol you saved us a lot of extra hard work!

Up the middle

After Dornoch we cut inland and struggled into a strong wind for 15 miles to the lonely village of Lairg, where we stopped for tea just as the weather changed. We rode for 40 miles in cloud and occasional drizzle across wild, desolate country almost devoid of trees except for forestry plantations. In time, we descended the now empty valley of Strathnaver, whose Gaelic-speaking people were forcibly evicted by the landowners in the widespread "clearances" of the early 1800s, to make room for sheep grazing. Many of them settled in Canada; hence "Nova Scotia". This felt like a place tinged with sadness and we had grey, brooding weather to match.
Mark.

The top!

We reached the north coast at Bettyhill at about 7pm and checked in - elated - to the Far Bay Inn (or FBI). After dinner we took a short stroll to the fabulous, empty beach. It was 10pm but still plenty of daylight and amazing skies reflected in the waves and off the wet sand. We stood and reflected on the enormity of our achievement - almost exactly 1,000 miles of cycling to this point - and we also wished Simon could be there to share it with us. But he'll get up here soon. Tomorrow we ride east along the coast to John O' Groats!
Mark.

Tain and Dornoch

We landed from the ferry at Nigg to find a national bike time trial in progress so we had fast-moving company for the first few miles. Our first stop was the handsome town of Tain, the home of Glenmorangie single malt whisky, for provisions. Then we crossed the bridge over the beautiful Dornoch Firth and followed the shore to the tiny sandstone burgh of Dornoch with its cathedral and old jail. It was another quiet little gem of a town and worth the slight detour on this gorgeous morning.
Mark.

Day 11 Cromarty ferry

Woke to blue skies and sunshine. The first ferry was due at 8am so we agreed to be out in time to get the one at 9am. When we arrived it was nowhere to be seen on either side of the Firth. Then some locals out by the harbour said the ferryman's mate had overslept after a night at the pub and it would leave in 20 mins after they had collected him. When it came it was fab - just room for one car to stand on a turntable so it could be spun to drive off the same way it came on. And the views back to Cromarty were superb. Nobody seemed to mind about the late start - it was that kind of place.
Mark.

The Black Isle

After Inverness we crossed the Kessock suspension bridge over the Moray Firth, and entered the Black Isle and a different world. Suddenly instead of mountains, lakes and tourists we had fields of crops, empty roads, pretty small towns, huge skies and views of the sea and land beyond. The big lighting director in the sky did his special tricks and we were treated to a memorable end to the day as we spun into lovely Cromarty a little after 8pm.
Mark.

Loch Ness

Loch Ness is very long - about 30 miles. It is also very deep and Nessie was hiding in the murky depths out of sight. We rode its length to Inverness in the afternoon, passing Urqhart Castle on the way. Lots of foreign tourists around here and signs asking us to "Drive on the left".
Mark.

Day 10 The Great Glen

We left Fort William in weather that would change every 10 minutes if you didn't like it. Ben Nevis would disappear altogether and then reveal a tantalising glimpse. We watched the road and railway swing around to make way for sailing and fishing boats on the Caledonian Canal at Neptune's staircase and then paid our respects at the Commando memorial at Spean Bridge. Ater that it was heads down past lochs Lochy and Oich to lunch in a Turkish restaurant (!) in Fort Augustus.
Mark.

Day 10 evening

Well it got better and better. We just about got served before the 9pm cut-off at the Cromarty Arms. The landlady was upstairs changing and the cook was not in but they fed us anyway. The beer (from the Cairngorms) was fabulous and then... Playing to an audience of between 12 and 20 was a 2 piece band who looked quite incapable of producing anything good but turned out to be the best band I've seen in Scotland ever. Genuinely superb guitarist and a singer and bass player who looks like Nobby Stiles but sounds like Feargal Sharkey! In the smallest, quietest little town you ever saw. Ace!
Mark.

Fund Raising Latest.

£4725 now . . . just a gnat's whisker from the £5k Target.

Looks like it'll be September time before I complete the ride. I'm already planning a route via Peebles, Edinburgh and Braemar. It'll be shorter days because of the available daylight but at least my knee might stand a chance of surviving. There's good reason then for Mark, Rich or Lex to join me for a bit of the route ;-). They will have recovered by then too.

Thanks to all of our sponsors to date. Hopefully the dynamic trio are tucked up in Cromaty tonight and will be on the Nigg Ferry in the morning. Only two days remain, they're pedaling to Bettyhill tomorrow and finally John O Groats the day after.

Stay tuned viewers :-)

Simon

Morvern

It did stop raining. Our ride across Morvern was truly a delight. Tiny roads through stunning Highland scenery and then hugging the shore of the sea loch. And almost no other vehicles at all. Bliss - until I had a puncture and a cloud of midges descended. Ugh! Keeps you moving along. We did a very high speed fix. Crossed Loch Linnhe at the Corran ferry so that makes 3 today. Then a quick 8 miles into Fort William and our b&b. One room with 2 doubles, so it will be musical beds tonight! 84 miles cycled today. Tomorrow we ride up the Great Glen and onto the Black Isle.
Mark.

Day 9 - Scotland's west coast

A mixed bag so far weather-wise. A dry but cloudy morning ride from Lochgilphead to Oban, where the sun shone brightly for an hour. I bought and fitted a new back tyre to replace my threadbare old one (see pic). Then it began to rain as we crossed to Mull on today's first ferry - a big one as it turned out. Rich became the first team member to have a daytime snooze on board. Then 5 quick miles long the Mull shore and we made the ferry over to Lochaline with about 2 minutes to spare! Now we have ahead of us about 40 miles across lonely Morvern before the Corran ferry back to Fort William and day's end. Will the rain stop?
Mark.

Tea in Tarbert

We reached Tarbert in time for a quick tea time snack. We sat out in the sun by the pretty natural harbour with its many sailing boats. Then a brisk hour or so to 4 star b&b accommodation in Lochgilphead and a curry for dinner. 92 miles and 2 ferries today.
Mark.

Ferry to Kintyre

We left Paul and took a small ferry to Kintyre to be met by highland cows.
Mark.

Isle of Aran

For the second day in a row we had glorious afternon weather. Our crossing to Arran gave amazing views of the mountainous island.
Mark.

Crossing Aran by bike

The 4 of us enjoyed a spectacular ride from Brodick to Lochranza at the island's northern tip. Even Paul made it up the very long mountain pass. The views all around were stunning!
Mark.

It's knee good, I can't continue.

Well I'm out! A 2 mile ride this afternoon was just too painful so I have no choice but to throw in the towel. But that's not the end of the matter as I still plan to complete the trip as soon as I am well enough. So I won't be collecting any off-line sponsorship money until I have reached John O'Groats. The trip was never supposed to be easy and I'm doing it not just for the challenge but for people that we have lost in the past year, for those lucky enough to survive and to to help raise money to ease the suffering of others in the future so it's a trip that must be completed.

To be continued . . . (hopefully either August or September).

Simon

Day 8 early start

Up at 6 today for a grey, damp ride into Ayr. When we reached the coast it got much nicer. Made the ferry for Arran quite comfortably and met my brother Paul who will ride with us over the island to Lochranza. Very comfy seats on the ferry!
Mark.

Dumfries and beyond

Dumfries is known as the "Queen of the south". It certainly has a pleasant stretch of embankment along the River Nith and some splendid bridges, not to mention a camera obscura... But we will also remember it for Rich falling off his bike sideways at some traffic lights and bending his brake lever! He was OK.
From Dumfries onwards we had the most wonderful ride through evening sunshine along deserted lanes to the remote village of Moniaive, complete with highland cattle, and then a superb hill section to the tiny YHA at Kendoon in the middle of nowhere. In the last hour we literally saw 1 van and 1 bicycle! We are the only ones staying tonight and were greeted on arrival at 8.45pm with beers! The location is stunning and it all seems a bit like a well-kept secret. We covered 100 miles today. Up at 6am for the ride to get the Arran ferry at Ardrossan.
Mark.